I made all the pads for parts in the library's I use .07 square, less milling travel.
All drills .035 unless needed, less drill changes.
I made a part for holes, with out a pad, this includes restrictions for routing.
These hole parts are .25 Dia, this will prevent a bit from ramming a pin.
I place the holes .150 x .150 from the board edges.
These are the pin holes that hold the board on the table.
This is to placed on the board only, no sch sym.
There is NO pad, so it CAN NOT be drilled.
I cut & drill some stock for PCB blanks.
Squared, clamped down & ready for drilling pinning holes.
Pin holes drilled, boards pinned to table & started to cut 4x6 boards
All pinning holes are always .150 from where board edges will be.
This will make more sense as you go through this page
2x3 blanks & drill backing (Smaller boards than shown above)
Pin table for 2x3 & 3x4 boards.
I surfaced the table, then drilled the pinning holes
Carbide alignment pins. VERY sharp.
They were ground with a drill doctor mounted to the mill table.
Good use for broken bits
I use a magnifying glass for alignment, X & Y
Zeroed to alignment pins, then moved
.150 x .150 to board edge, actual zero
A drill doctor motor out of the case, only 2 screws hold it in
a complete unit ready to mount to the table & use.
Cheap easy diamond grinder, Cool!!
It can be used to make a router bit if really needed, but it's probably easier to just get them from http://drewtronics.net/
There's also a link on the PCB Gcode site http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pcb-gcode/links
The live video is a lot cleaner & doesnt jerk.
Mill vac, Must have.
I bought a shark vac at Goodwill for $7.00,
drilled a couple 1-1/2" holes & duct taped the intake.
I used a cheapo container for messy things like surfacing
Bits I use for traces. Broken .02" , good .02" & .03"
The cam display is at 30x actual. I can see any problem very easily,
& sit at the desk & monitor everything
Vac hose strapped to the mill during drill.
